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1987 Lowenbrau Porsche 962 Daytona 24 winner IMSA conversion instructions

1987 Lowenbrau Porsche 962 Daytona 24 winner IMSA conversion instructions

About the kit…..

This conversion kit is for any of the 1/24 Hasegawa or Revell Porsche 962C kits and will replicate the 1987 24 hours of Daytona winning car of Al Holbert, Derek Bell, Chip Robinson and Al Unser Jr.

You can purchase a conversion kit from my website HERE… Easy checkout, you dont need any account, I accept Paypal and credit card. The kit comes with the proper turbo hump that was used in the 1987 24 Hours of Daytona, along with replacement side panels, naca roof duct, naca duct plugs, BBS wheels, and simple instructions.

The Donor kit you need

Any of the 1/24 Hasegawa or Revell Porsche 962c kits will work, even though each kit might have different wheels in the kit, thats doesn’t matter as our IMSA Porsche 962 conversion kit comes with BBS wheels

The Decals


Purchase this decal sheet from Indycals

Indycals has a beautiful decal sheet for this kit. These decals accurately depict the winning car from the 1987 24 Hours of Daytona.

The build-up…..

I recommend using Grey and White Tamiya lacquer Surface Primer for this build. Its important to use lacquer on resin parts for best results. Its best to avoid enamel paints over resin parts at all cost. Unless you use lacquer primer as a base, you can apply enamel over lacquer paint.

The recommend color for this build: Tamiya TS26 Prue white for the overall body color

Sawing off tail end of the rear ground effect tunnels
The first step is to cut of the last part of the under-tray to fit on the larger ground effect tunnels. Using a Razor saw, saw right on the leading edge of the rear bottom A-arm mounting point.

Superglue the ground effect tail end onto the plastic kit chassis. Be sure to use plenty of glue for a good weld

Add Apoxie-Sculpt, if needed to fill-in any gap of ridge. Sand the bottom of the tunnels smooth after the Apoxie-Sculpt cures….

Test fitting and marking cutout section of turbo hump
Test fit the turbo hump on the rear. The resin turbo hump has an indention of the naca duct underneath that will help align the turbo hump on-top of the body work. But, before gluing the turbo hump on-top of the bodywork, I recommend tracing out a section where the vents of the turbo hump is, to cut out an open section for a more realistic look. Not opening up this section inside of the turbo hump vent section will make for a tricky painting situation later on.

Grinding out rear naca ducts
Using a Dremel, grind out the square raised part of the rear side naca ducts

rear naca duct resin plugs
Test fit on the two rear naca duct sections with the square resin blocks.

Roughing up area for better glue adhesion
Its recommended to take a sanding file to rough up the are where the the resin turbo hump will be super glued on. This gives the super glue a roughed up surface to grab onto.

rear naca duct plugs glued into place
Superglue the resin blocks into place.

Gluing resin turbo hump into place
Super glue the resin turbo hump into place. Align into place before the glue sets-up.

Marking out locations for cutting out

Use an ink pen to mark out the section for the turbo hump area and mark the section of the top roof naca duct.

Superglue the top roof naca duct into place. If there is some gaps, there is no need to worry as you can fill these spots with Apoxie-Sculpt, which that step will come later….

Optional side exhaust plug

This step is optional – if you don’t want to cut anymore off your body you can simply glue on the exhaust side plug on each side. But if you want the full replacement panels with vents, see the next step….

If you choose to add the whole square pannel with side vents, go ahead and mark the location that needs to be cut off. Use a razor saw to cut the two sides.

Superglue the side panels into place.

Use Apoxie-Sculpt to fill in any gaps on the attached resin parts. Add Apoxie-Sculpt into the old naca duct hole that is part of the kit. Be sure to rough up the surface before adding Apoxie-Sculpt so it has something to adhere to. The apoxie-sculpt will need 24 hours to cure properly and then it can be sanded down and leveled.

You also need to use Apoxie-Sculpt to fill in the tow-hook opening in the body as the 1986 and 1987 Lowenbrau Porsches didn't have an opening on the the front.

Sand all the bumps out smooth…..

Cut out a wedge of styrene to fit into the first section of the radiator exit and glue into place to make a “T” section in the radiator exit.

After the glue cures on the styrene wedge cut off flush and sand the top smooth.

 After leveling out and sanding the Apoxie-Sculpt the entire body and any part of the kit that needs paint will require scuffing up the surface with a scotch brite pad so the primer has a nice surface to adhere to and grab onto.

After you have a dull roughed up surface and all course sanding spots are finely sanded out. Wash your body and parts with Dawn dish washing soap and scrub. This will help take off any oil or contamination off the body so the primer will stick.

 

When the body is dry and clean, use Tamiya grey primer in the modified areas of the body first. Adding primer shows any imprecations on your surface and most likely there will be some blemishes to fix. If there is an small hole or fine gap, use Bondo sport filler in the problem area. Use a dull x-acto knife to apply the filler. Let dry for about an hour and re-sand the surface until it looks smooth, then repeat the primer application until the blemishes are gone. This step is not necessarily exciting but is the most important to accomplish a desirable finish. A good finished paint job requires a lot of long and hard prep work.

When all the blemishes are all gone, use Tamiya White Primer to eliminate any color bleed-through with the of the body and other parts. Adding the Tamiya White Primer helps the Tamiya TS-26 Pure White to have a nice white surface that will not effect the color of the red paint. Tamiya Lacquer paints are very transparent and need a nice white surface to lay over.

The Decals

My favorite part of a racing car model build is the the decaling part. I prefer using Indycals decals whenever possible. The nice futures of Indycals decals is the are fresh, not too think or thick, easier to handle than a lot of decals, Indycals decals always works great with Walthers Solvaset decal setting solution. The white decals are actually WHITE when you apply them over any colored painted surface and have the least amount of transparency than any decal manufacture I know, especially kit decals!

Im decaling this body FIRST because I plant to clear coat over the decals with Model Masters or Testors Clear Lacquer. Indycals decals handle clear lacquer paint just fine, also the ‘hot’ Tamiya TS-13 Clear. Im not using Tamiya TS-13 on this build because after a decade of using Tamiya paints Ive noticed Tamiya TS-13 has the tendency to make red Tamiya ‘roll’ off , Im NOT talking about crinkle, but more like, ‘melt off’…it also does this with Tamiya Black and Florescent red.

The Wheels

When preparing the wheels for paint, I like to spray anything that requires chrome with a Flat Black base coat first. I gave the wheels a spray of Tamiya Matte Black.

My new love for Chrome paint is actually in pen form and that is Molotow Liqued Chrome pens, the chrome reflection is AMAZING! and in an easy to use pen form to where you have complete control. If there is any spots you cant fit the pen tip, you can quickly take a paint brush and move some of the paint in the hard to reach area and it doesn’t effect the chrome shine.

Next I brushed on some Tamiya X12 Gold Leaf to the inside part of the wheels. After the Gold dries I added some washed down Tamiya X-19 Smoke to add some depth to the wheels. I use Tamiya Acrylic Thinner X-20A to wash down the Tamiya X-19 Smoke.

 

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1986 Lowenbrau Porsche 962 Daytona 24 Winner instructions

1986 Lowenbrau Porsche 962 Daytona 24 Winner instructions

About the kit…..

This conversion kit is for any of the 1/24 Hasegawa or Revell Porsche 962C kits and will replicate the 1986 24 hours of Daytona winning car of Al Holbert, Derek Bell, and Al Unser Jr.

You can purchase a conversion kit from my website HERE… Easy checkout, you dont need any account, I accept Paypal and credit card. The kit comes with the proper turbo hump that was used in the 1986 24 Hours of Daytona, along with replacement side panels, naca roof duct, naca duct plugs, BBS wheels, and simple instructions.

The Donor kit you need

Any of the 1/24 Hasegawa or Revell Porsche 962c kits will work, even though each kit might have different wheels in the kit, thats doesn’t matter as our IMSA Porsche 962 conversion kit comes with BBS wheels

The Decals


Purchase this decal sheet from Indycals

Indycals has a beautiful decal sheet for this kit. These decals accurately depict the winning car from the 1986 Daytona 24 hours 

The build-up…..

I recommend using Grey and White Tamiya lacquer Surface Primer for this build. Its important to use lacquer on resin parts for best results. Its best to avoid enamel paints over resin parts at all cost. Unless you use lacquer primer as a base, you can apply enamel over lacquer paint.

The recommend color for this build: Tamiya TS-26 Prue White for the overall body color

Sawing off tail end of the rear ground effect tunnels
The first step is to cut of the last part of the under-tray to fit on the larger ground effect tunnels. Using a Razor saw, saw right on the leading edge of the rear bottom A-arm mounting point.

Superglue the ground effect tail end onto the plastic kit chassis. Be sure to use plenty of glue for a good weld

Add Apoxie-Sculpt, if needed to fill-in any gap of ridge. Sand the bottom of the tunnels smooth after the Apoxie-Sculpt cures….

Test fitting and marking cutout section of turbo hump
Test fit the turbo hump on the rear. The resin turbo hump has an indention of the naca duct underneath that will help align the turbo hump on-top of the body work. But, before gluing the turbo hump on-top of the bodywork, I recommend tracing out a section where the vents of the turbo hump is, to cut out an open section for a more realistic look. Not opening up this section inside of the turbo hump vent section will make for a tricky painting situation later on.

Grinding out rear naca ducts
Using a Dremel, grind out the square raised part of the rear side naca ducts

rear naca duct resin plugs
Test fit on the two rear naca duct sections with the square resin blocks.

Roughing up area for better glue adhesion
Its recommended to take a sanding file to rough up the are where the the resin turbo hump will be super glued on. This gives the super glue a roughed up surface to grab onto.

rear naca duct plugs glued into place
Superglue the resin blocks into place.

Gluing resin turbo hump into place
Super glue the resin turbo hump into place. Align into place before the glue sets-up.

Marking out locations for cutting out

Use an ink pen to mark out the section for the turbo hump area and mark the section of the top roof naca duct.

Superglue the top roof naca duct into place. If there is some gaps, there is no need to worry as you can fill these spots with Apoxie-Sculpt, which that step will come later….

Optional side exhaust plug

This step is optional – if you don’t want to cut anymore off your body you can simply glue on the exhaust side plug on each side. But if you want the full replacement panels with vents, see the next step….

If you choose to add the whole square pannel with side vents, go ahead and mark the location that needs to be cut off. Use a razor saw to cut the two sides.

Superglue the side panels into place.

Use Apoxie-Sculpt to fill in any gaps on the attached resin parts. Add Apoxie-Sculpt into the old naca duct hole that is part of the kit. Be sure to rough up the surface before adding Apoxie-Sculpt so it has something to adhere to. The apoxie-sculpt will need 24 hours to cure properly and then it can be sanded down and leveled.

You also need to use Apoxie-Sculpt to fill in the tow-hook opening in the body as the 1986 and 1987 Lowenbrau Porsches didn't have an opening on the the front.

Sand all the bumps out smooth…..

Cut out a wedge of styrene to fit into the first section of the radiator exit and glue into place to make a “T” section in the radiator exit.

After the glue cures on the styrene wedge cut off flush and sand the top smooth.

 After leveling out and sanding the Apoxie-Sculpt the entire body and any part of the kit that needs paint will require scuffing up the surface with a scotch brite pad so the primer has a nice surface to adhere to and grab onto.

After you have a dull roughed up surface and all course sanding spots are finely sanded out. Wash your body and parts with Dawn dish washing soap and scrub. This will help take off any oil or contamination off the body so the primer will stick.

 

When the body is dry and clean, use Tamiya grey primer in the modified areas of the body first. Adding primer shows any imprecations on your surface and most likely there will be some blemishes to fix. If there is an small hole or fine gap, use Bondo sport filler in the problem area. Use a dull x-acto knife to apply the filler. Let dry for about an hour and re-sand the surface until it looks smooth, then repeat the primer application until the blemishes are gone. This step is not necessarily exciting but is the most important to accomplish a desirable finish. A good finished paint job requires a lot of long and hard prep work.

When all the blemishes are all gone, use Tamiya White Primer to eliminate any color bleed-through with the of the body and other parts. Adding the Tamiya White Primer helps the Tamiya TS-26 Pure White to have a nice white surface that will not effect the color of the red paint. Tamiya Lacquer paints are very transparent and need a nice white surface to lay over.

The Decals

My favorite part of a racing car model build is the the decaling part. I prefer using Indycals decals whenever possible. The nice futures of Indycals decals is the are fresh, not too think or thick, easier to handle than a lot of decals, Indycals decals always works great with Walthers Solvaset decal setting solution. The white decals are actually WHITE when you apply them over any colored painted surface and have the least amount of transparency than any decal manufacture I know, especially kit decals!

Im decaling this body FIRST because I plant to clear coat over the decals with Model Masters or Testors Clear Lacquer. Indycals decals handle clear lacquer paint just fine, also the ‘hot’ Tamiya TS-13 Clear. Im not using Tamiya TS-13 on this build because after a decade of using Tamiya paints Ive noticed Tamiya TS-13 has the tendency to make red Tamiya ‘roll’ off , Im NOT talking about crinkle, but more like, ‘melt off’…it also does this with Tamiya Black and Florescent red.

The Wheels

When preparing the wheels for paint, I like to spray anything that requires chrome with a Flat Black base coat first. I gave the wheels a spray of Tamiya Matte Black.

My new love for Chrome paint is actually in pen form and that is Molotow Liqued Chrome pens, the chrome reflection is AMAZING! and in an easy to use pen form to where you have complete control. If there is any spots you cant fit the pen tip, you can quickly take a paint brush and move some of the paint in the hard to reach area and it doesn’t effect the chrome shine.

Next I brushed on some Tamiya X12 Gold Leaf to the inside part of the wheels. After the Gold dries I added some washed down Tamiya X-19 Smoke to add some depth to the wheels. I use Tamiya Acrylic Thinner X-20A to wash down the Tamiya X-19 Smoke.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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1976 Martini Porsche 936 Le Mans Winner Conversion

1976 Martini Porsche 936 Le Mans Winner Conversion

High airbox conversion kit for the 1/24 Mitsuwa Martini Porsche 936/BLACK Martini Porsche 936 kits.  This conversion kit makes it possible to build the 1976 24 Hours Le-mans winner of Jacky Ickx and Gijs van Lennep.

Resin Kit:
(1) Resin High Airbox
(2) Cockpit extensions
(1) Vac-U-Form windscreen

Decals:
Decals available at Indycals HERE
or
You can buy the decal sheet, HERE. Decal sheet will be fulfilled by Indycals and will be shipped separately by Indycals

You can find this kit on ebay, HERE

 

Take a low grit sanding file to make it possible for the superglue to attach plastic model to the new resin high-airbox

Apply lots of supeglue when attaching the airbox and let dry for a day.

Use Apoxie-Sculpt to fill in the gaps in between the resin airbox and plastic kit

Super glue the cockpit extensions on each side of the cockpit sides

Use body filler to fill in the gaps and blend in the body work

Sand the body filler smooth

Use Tamiya Grey Surface Primer and sand out any imperfections 

After the body gaps and imprections are fixed, use Tamiya White surface primer and paint with Tamiya Pure White

Cut out and attach clear vac-u-form windscreen. Be sure to test fit while cutting out the windscreen

 

Apply Decals from Indycals

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Tamiya Porsche 962c door upgrade kit instructions

Tamiya Porsche 962c door upgrade kit instructions

 You can buy this upgrade kit HERE right on our store!

The area shaded in red is the area that needs to be removed, on both sides with in that area.

Use a Dremel to grind out the area on the door. You dont have to be perfect, but try your best to keep with in the red area.

Use Dremel to grind out the red highlighted area

sand down the edges with freshly cutout area

sand the edges as smooth as possible around the freshly cut out areas

Glue the resin door inserts into place. You don't need to be 100% perfect. Just get it close enough. 

Add as much superglue as needed under the resin door inserts

Apply Apoxie-sculpt to the gaps and sand smooth

 

Remove the areas in red on the cockpit area, this insures the new resin door parts fit.

 

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1965 Le Mans Winning  N.A.R.T. Ferrari 250 LM Long Nose Upgrade kit-Instructions Step-by-step

1965 Le Mans Winning N.A.R.T. Ferrari 250 LM Long Nose Upgrade kit-Instructions Step-by-step

Introduction

These step-by-step instructions will show you critical steps to convert the Academy Ferrari 250 LM plastic kit into a 1965 24 Hours of Lemans Winning Long Nose Ferrari 250 LM N.A.R.T winning #21 car

You can buy this conversion kit HERE on this website

Which kit to buy?

Any of the three different Boxes of the 1/24 Academy Ferrari 250 LM kits work, they are the same in all respects beside the decals.

You can find these kits HERE on ebay.

 

Modifications 

Take a black marker and mark the area on the bottom of the Academy Ferrari nose to grind out with a Dremel.

Sand down the front nose on the plastic kit to help attach the resin nose with superglue.

 

Bodywork

After the superglue dries, use a low grit sanding file to blend the edge between the new resin nose and the plastic kit. YOU DONT have to be perfect with this step, just get it close.

Add Apoxie-Sculpt to fill-in the seam between the resin nose and plastic body. Let Apoxie-Scultp cure for 24 hours.

Sand down the Apoxie-Sculpt as smooth as possible. Use a low grit sanding file and work up to a higher grit sand paper for smoother surface.

You DONT have to be perfect with this step, you have plenty of opportunity to get the surface smooth and perfect. Filling and sanding is a PROCESS, it easy, but takes time and isn't fun.

Its also important to take in consideration of the front headlights as that transition between resin and plastic CAN be problematic. Be sure to cut out and test fit the vac-u-forum windscreen to make sure the shape of the bodywork around the headlights is going to work in your favor. 

Before you start shooting primer on the body, make sure to take the scuffing pad and rough up the surface of the plastic and resin nose. Clean and scuff and repeat until the shin is off the surface.

IMPORTANT! Take in consideration these next steps may take a few days of sanding, filling, priming and repeating until the surface is smooth and level.

Apply first coat of primer. YOU MUST use Lacquer primer on resin. NEVER EVER use enamel primer. If you dont know why your primer is, just dont use it. Spend the money and get something reliable like Tamiya grey Surface Primer and or Tamiya White surface Primer

Let primer dry 24 hours

Apply Bondo spot filler putty to any small hole or pin holes or rough areas.

Sand down the body filler until smooth and repeat the priming process, again and repeat steps over and over if needed.

This is the typical process for blending the bodywork together.

 

Painting

Before apply the red paint make sure to spray with Tamiya White Surface Primer.

YOU MUST use white primer before spraying the Tamiya TS-8 Italian Red Lacquer Spray paint.

 

Decaling

Decals are available from Indycals.net I highly Recommend using Walters Solvaset Decal setting solution with Indycals Decals

Make sure to apply this small Shell logo with open wheel racecar on the right side of the car.

After the Decals have dried for 24 hours, the option to apply clear coat over the decals which give a more realistic look on the car. 

After clear coating using Tamiya Polish helps smooth the surface and give a shinny look. DO NOT rub Polish over the decals, it will DISTORY them.

Adding Details

Adding bare metal foil is the easiest way to add the chrome molding. I used the brand "Bare Metal Foil - Ultra Chrome"

Its easiest to cut of a large section of Bare Metal foil and just stick it over the entire area. Use your fingers to push down the surface and Q-tip to smooth out the wrinkles.

Attaching Vac-U-Form headlight covers (Very difficult!)

This part is going to take skills and calm emotions. Before you start make sure you glued in the headlights and paint the inside aluminum color.

Use small scissors  to cutout the vac-u-form head light covers. Because of the nature of the headlight and everyone sculpting out this area little bit differently, I PURPPOSLY made the Vac-u-Form headlight covers larger to make sure its going to fit. YOUR JOB is to test fit and make sure the outer edge covers the outline of the headlights just right. Be sure to leave an edge of the clear cover as this will be needed to apply more chrome bare metal foil over. (read the next steps to understand better.)

I use CA glue on my Clear Vac-u-form parts but this is very risky and is not for everyone. I recommend using a glue you are comfortable with. Its also important that the clear head light covers are STRONG before applying the bare Metal foil on.

Apply a section Bare Metal foil onto the headlight covers. Just like on the window molding, I prefer the brand Bare Metal Foil - Ultra Chome. 

Smooth out Bare Metal Foil with your fingers and a Q-tip.

If it doesn't look right, just rip it off and re-do it. This step is not easy. So dont feel bad if you are challenged.

Use the outline of the Clear vac-u-form headlight cover as a guide for using a new sharp X-acto knife to cut off the Bare Metal Foil.

This next step take a study hand and that is to use the x-acto knife to cut out the inside of bare Metal foil for the headlight cover.

Lower front nose lights

Be sure to sand these kit lights to make sure they fit. Depending how many coats of paint you use, this will effect how these fit in. So be sure to take your time and sand and fit. Paint the backs silver after done and super glue not the holes in the resin nose. and add Bare Metal Foil as a bracket.

Adding Panel Line color is a nice touch for the screen in the back.

Black Resin tires

I recommend spray painting these resin tires with Tamiya TS-82 Rubber Spray Paint and apply the Indycals Tire decals included on the sheet.

 

The finished kit

If you have any questions email me at info@classicracingresins.com

 

If you want to build the 1965 2nd Place Yellow Belgian Ferrari 250 LM, we have the decals and Black Resin tire upgrades, HERE

 

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1996 Hollywood Brasilia Mclaren F1 GTR Upgrade kit instructions

1996 Hollywood Brasilia Mclaren F1 GTR Upgrade kit instructions

With an interval of just one week, the BPR circus landed in the federal capital for the second and last extra-championship stage, of the 2 hours from Brasilia

In Nelson Piquet's home, it would be no different that the Brazilian, alongside Johnny Ceccoto, achieved a great performance. With the Venezuelan starting the race, the team soon consolidated the lead in the race.

Half an hour into the race, Cecotto had an unusual problem in his "stint", when the nut on the front left wheel came loose, detaching the wheel from the hub. The Venezuelan had skill and calm to take the McLaren to the pits. The damage was reasonable, losing the lead and falling to tenth place. After the damage was addressed, Cecotto was making up the difference lap by lap. He did very well and handed the car over to Nelson Piquet, at the pit stop, leading the race.

From then on, he managed to lead the race, taking advantage of McLaren's V12 BMW engine, to receive the flag and take the second victory in Brazil.

In order to build a proper 1996 Hollywood car you need to purchase either the:

-1/24 Fujimi Mclaren F1 GTR Short Tail - Lemans 1995 #59 Ueno Clinic

-1/24 Fujimi Mclaren F1 GTR Short Tail  - Lemans 1995 #24 Gulf

-1/24 Fujimi Mclaren F1 GTR Short Tail - Lemans 1995 #49 West FM

-1/24 Fujimi Mclaren F1 GTR Short Tail - BPR Zhuhai 1996 #6 "Smoking Cowboy"

 Correcting the ride height issue
Take the Front and rear hub/brake assembly and simplify super glue them onto the a-arms of the kit. Just make sure they are square to the overall chassis and just like that the ride height problem is fix.

 

Tires
We are using Indycals 1/24 scale Michelin tires with the black background it makes it way easier to handle. But the key is using Walthers Solveset decal solution. I simply cut out the tire decal and apply it to the tire and then apply the decal solution and let it sit for about 7 mins and take an old t-shirt and dab the decal down to the surface and it will start conforming to the sidewall of the tire. The decal solution softens up the decal and helps “iron out” the wrinkles.

This is why I like the Indycals tire decals. Especially on rubber kit tires, where “silvering” often happens when the clear carrier film around the graphics or letters can be seen. The black carrier film of the Indycals tire decals hides any “silvering” that may occur. I just applied the Indycals 1/24 scale Michelin tires. I also used Walthers Solvaset Decal solution to help lay the decals snug and flat. You can buy the Michelin tire decals here

I recommend using Tamiya TS-82 Rubber Black and after the Indycals tire decals are applied spray Tamiya TS-80 Flat Clear to seal the decal and give the proper rubber look.

 

We recommend using Tamiya lacquer surface primer on all resin surfaces. DO NOT use enamels on resin.

 

Bodywork
I order to build a proper Hollywood McLaren you MUST use the resin hood no matter what Fujimi McLaren you are using as even on the BPR Zhuhai version the hood is NOT accurate as seen in the picture bellow. The Kit hood is not sharp like the real hood.

 

Use the flat part and super glue onto the top of the hood

The Hollywood Mclaren uses the roof scoop.

in 1996 the Bigazzi Team cars didn't have the front part of the side skirt and it was a rounded side surface.

Try your best to cut off the skirt and take the sanding file and round the surface, but don't be surprised the plastic splits and then you will have to use Apoxie sculpt and fill inside.

Panting instructions

Be sure to fill and clean your resin fenders. I don not use mold release in my molds but the resin still can pick up some oil contamination from the silicone rubber mold. Soaking in tire bleach or spray and rinse down with oven clean works well. Also when sanding the surface of the resin its recommended to use Dawn dish washing soap as that helps get any possible grease off

 

Use Tamiya Grey Primer to find any imperfections that might be on the body. That is the main reason for applying primer is to help find any problem areas and to give the color coats a nice base to adhere to.

 

Its always important to test fit any model you build. every model fits slightly different and every part that is glued on is not exactly correct and those slight variations add up. So always test fit before you start painting any model.

After apply coats of grey primer, I prefer to give the body a couple coast of Tamiya White primer. When using Tamiya spray paints, its important to use a white base, because Tamiya spray paints are very thin and translucent. After the white Primer is cured, Apply Tamiya TS-26 Pure White.

 

Applying decals

Use Walters Solvaset for applying the Indycals decals. Which can be purchased HERE. After applying the decals I would HIGHLY recommend clear coating over the decals. Testors Lacquer Clear coat is a good safe clear coat, Tamiya TS-13 also works but and be a little ‘Hot” so be careful.

After all those steps its just a matter of following the kit instructions until the end.

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1/25 1985 Foyt March 85C full Multimedia kit  instructions

1/25 1985 Foyt March 85C full Multimedia kit instructions

You can buy the 1985 Foyt March 85C Resin CLICK HERE

This resin kit requires the follow Paints, tools, and supplies:
Tire Bleach
Scuff Pads
Spot filler
Super Glue
Tamiya Grey Surface Primer
Tamiya White Surface Primer
Mustang Poppy Red Spray Paint
Tamiya TS38 Gun Metal
Tamiya TS29 Semi-Gloss Black
Tamiya TS6 Matt Black
Tamiya TS82 Rubber
Molotow Liquid Chrome Marker
Solvaset Decal Solution
Surgical scissors
CA Glue
Canopy Glue
- #52 0.063” Drill bit
- Pin Vise drill
-Various Grits of sand paper
-Sanding sticks

 

Parts List

PARTS LIST

 -Body
-Undertray
-Clear Windscreen
A1 – Cockpit
A2 – Transaxle
A3 – Seat
A4 – Brake Disc
A5 – Dash
A6 – Rear Wing Strut Mount
A7 – Steering Wheel
A8 – Right Front Wing
A9 – Left Front Wing
A10 – Left Radiator
A11 – Right Radiator
A12 – Rear Wing Strut
A49 – Rear Wheel Nuts
A50 – Pop Off Valve
A51 – Mirrors
A52 – Front Wheel nuts
A53 – Turbo Inlet
F17 – Foyt Rear Wing
F18 – Foyt Right Rear Wing Endplate
F19 – Foyt Left Rear Wing Endplate
B23 – Rear Tires
B24 – Front Tires
B25 – Rear Wheels
B26 – Front Wheels
M31 – RIGHT Rear Lower Wishbone
M32 – LEFT Rear Lower Wishbone
M33 – RIGHT Front Lower Wishbone
M34 – Left Front Lower Wishbone
M35 – RIGHT Front Upper Wishbone
M36 – LEFT Front Upper Wishbone
M37 – Rear Upper Suspension
M38 – LEFT Rear Hub
M39 – RIGHT Rear Hub
M40 – LEFT Front Hub
M41 – RIGHT Front Hub
M42 – Rollover Hoop
M43 – Fuel Inlet
M44 – Exhaust
M45 – Steering Rod Sleave
M46- Pull Rods
M47- Steering Rod
M48 – Rear Axle

 

Part 1 – Clean up

Be sure to fill and clean your resin parts. I do not use mold release in my molds, but the resin still can pick up some oil contamination from the silicone rubber mold. Soaking in tire bleach or spray and rinse down with oven clean works well. Also, when sanding the surface of the resin its recommended to use Dawn dish washing soap as that helps get any possible grease off
Wash and soak all resin parts in Tire Bleach overnight. This will remove all contamination/oil off the resin.
After the Tire Bleach Bath, use a scratch pad and scuff up the entire surface to clean and scratch up the surface for proper Primer adhesion. Using a high grit sandpaper to clean up and scratch up the surface is also recommended. Failing to clean the surface will result in paint not adhering or paint reaction.
Fill in any pin holes or air bubbles in the resin with putty or Bondo Spot filler and sand smooth.
This is the most important part of the build.

Step 2 – Buildup

-Drill out the center of the Transaxle with a #52 0.063” Drill bit
-Drill out the hole for the steering rod sleeve with a #52 0.063” Drill bit

-Paint the Undertray with Tamiya TS-29 Semi-Gloss Black
-Paint (A2) Transaxle with Tamiya TS-35 Gunmetal
-Insert Brass (M48) Rear Axle into drilled hole of (A2) Transaxle
-Superglue the (A2) Transaxle onto the Undertray.

Glue on the following parts illustrated below

The white metal suspension parts need to be polished with steel wool or a soft brass wire wheel as the Penske Cars had Chrome suspension

Paint (A1) cockpit with Tamiya TS-29 Semi-Gloss Black
Paint (A3) Seat with Tamiya TS-6 Matt Black
Paint (A5) Dash with Aluminum and TS-29 Semi Gloss Black
Glue Seat and Dash into place

Step 3 - Body

Superglue Front wings onto the nose, be sure to test fit and develop a plan on how you are going to attach them properly.

Add a light coat of Tamiya Grey Surface Primer
Check for imperfections, sand, fill, sand, fill, and repeat
Add light coats of Grey Primer until all imperfection are gone.

Add light coats of Tamiya White Surface Primer
After Primer dries. Lightly sand smooth with high grit sandpaper.

paint Body with Mustang Poppy Red.
Spray 3 coats
First coat spray light and get all the hard to spray spots first. Let sit for 1 hour
Second coat, makes it a little heavier, let sit for 1 hour
Last coat, spray heavy and then let dry for 48 hrs

Step 4 Wheels and Tires

Drill out rear wheel with #52 0.063” Drill bit
Paint the wheels Semi Gloss Black

Sand and Clean up the black Resin tires then spray Tamiya TS-32 Rubber on them. Apply Indycals tire decals and use Solveset Decal solution to soften and help the decals conform to the curvature of the tire.

Step 5 Rear Wing and Front suspension

Paint rear wing assembly Mustang Poppy Red. Glue the (A12) Rear Wing Strut onto the (F17) Rear Wing. Then Glue on the (F18 and F19) Rear Wing Endplates onto Rear Wing
Before Gluing on the suspension parts, insert (M45) Steering Rod Sleeve though the front nose.

Glue on the following parts illustrated below

Step 6 Other parts and Windscreen

Before gluing the Undertray onto the body. Attach A10, A11, M44, and A53.
Next, Superglue the cockpit into the body. Then superglue the Undertray onto the bottom of body

Superglue on the (M42) Rollover Hoop and the (M43) Fuel Inlet.
Using small scissors cut out the Vac-u-form Clear Windscreen and attach it with windscreen/canopy glue or CA Glue (risky)

Use a small dab of CA Glue to attach the (A52) Mirrors to the side of the windscreen

Attach wheels to the hubs and glue on the (A49) Rear Wheel nuts and (A52) Front Wheel Nuts

Step 7 – Apply Decals

Read more →

1/25 1985 Budweiser March 85C full Multimedia kit instructions

1/25 1985 Budweiser March 85C full Multimedia kit instructions

You can buy the 1985 Bud March 85C Resin CLICK HERE

This resin kit requires the follow Paints, tools, and supplies:
Tire Bleach
Scuff Pads
Spot filler
Super Glue
Tamiya Grey Surface Primer
Tamiya White Surface Primer
Tamiya TS-12 Italian Red
Tamiya TS38 Gun Metal
Tamiya TS29 Semi-Gloss Black
Tamiya TS6 Matt Black
Tamiya TS82 Rubber
Molotow Liquid Chrome Marker
Solvaset Decal Solution
Surgical scissors
CA Glue
Canopy Glue
- #52 0.063” Drill bit
- Pin Vise drill
-Various Grits of sand paper
-Sanding sticks

 

Parts List

PARTS LIST

 -Body
-Undertray
-Clear Windscreen
A1 – Cockpit
A2 – Transaxle
A3 – Seat
A4 – Brake Disc
A5 – Dash
A6 – Rear Wing Strut Mount
A7 – Steering Wheel
A8 – Right Front Wing
A9 – Left Front Wing
A10 – Left Radiator
A11 – Right Radiator
A12 – Rear Wing Strut
A49 – Rear Wheel Nuts
A50 – Pop Off Valve
A51 – Mirrors
A52 – Front Wheel nuts
A53 – Turbo Inlet
R14 – Rahal Rear Wing
R15 – Rahal Right Rear Wing Endplate
R16 – Rahal Left Rear Wing Endplate

B23 – Rear Tires
B24 – Front Tires
B25 – Rear Wheels
B26 – Front Wheels
M31 – RIGHT Rear Lower Wishbone
M32 – LEFT Rear Lower Wishbone
M33 – RIGHT Front Lower Wishbone
M34 – Left Front Lower Wishbone
M35 – RIGHT Front Upper Wishbone
M36 – LEFT Front Upper Wishbone
M37 – Rear Upper Suspension
M38 – LEFT Rear Hub
M39 – RIGHT Rear Hub
M40 – LEFT Front Hub
M41 – RIGHT Front Hub
M42 – Rollover Hoop
M43 – Fuel Inlet
M44 – Exhaust
M45 – Steering Rod Sleave
M46- Pull Rods
M47- Steering Rod
M48 – Rear Axle

 

Part 1 – Clean up

Be sure to fill and clean your resin parts. I do not use mold release in my molds, but the resin still can pick up some oil contamination from the silicone rubber mold. Soaking in tire bleach or spray and rinse down with oven clean works well. Also, when sanding the surface of the resin its recommended to use Dawn dish washing soap as that helps get any possible grease off
Wash and soak all resin parts in Tire Bleach overnight. This will remove all contamination/oil off the resin.
After the Tire Bleach Bath, use a scratch pad and scuff up the entire surface to clean and scratch up the surface for proper Primer adhesion. Using a high grit sandpaper to clean up and scratch up the surface is also recommended. Failing to clean the surface will result in paint not adhering or paint reaction.
Fill in any pin holes or air bubbles in the resin with putty or Bondo Spot filler and sand smooth.
This is the most important part of the build.

Step 2 – Buildup

-Drill out the center of the Transaxle with a #52 0.063” Drill bit
-Drill out the hole for the steering rod sleeve with a #52 0.063” Drill bit

-Paint the Undertray with Tamiya TS-29 Semi-Gloss Black
-Paint (A2) Transaxle with Tamiya TS-35 Gunmetal
-Insert Brass (M48) Rear Axle into drilled hole of (A2) Transaxle
-Superglue the (A2) Transaxle onto the Undertray.

Glue on the following parts illustrated below

The white metal suspension parts need to be polished with steel wool or a soft brass wire wheel as the Penske Cars had Chrome suspension

Paint (A1) cockpit with Tamiya TS-29 Semi-Gloss Black
Paint (A3) Seat with Tamiya TS-6 Matt Black
Paint (A5) Dash with Aluminum and TS-29 Semi Gloss Black
Glue Seat and Dash into place

Step 3 - Body

Superglue Front wings onto the nose, be sure to test fit and develop a plan on how you are going to attach them properly.

Add a light coat of Tamiya Grey Surface Primer
Check for imperfections, sand, fill, sand, fill, and repeat
Add light coats of Grey Primer until all imperfection are gone.

Add light coats of Tamiya White Surface Primer
After Primer dries. Lightly sand smooth with high grit sandpaper.

paint Body with Tamiya TS-8 Italian Red.
Spray 3 coats
First coat spray light and get all the hard to spray spots first. Let sit for 1 hour
Second coat, makes it a little heavier, let sit for 1 hour
Last coat, spray heavy and then let dry for 48 hrs

Step 4 Wheels and Tires

Drill out rear wheel with #52 0.063” Drill bit
Paint the wheels Semi Gloss Black

Sand and Clean up the black Resin tires then spray Tamiya TS-32 Rubber on them. Apply Indycals tire decals and use Solveset Decal solution to soften and help the decals conform to the curvature of the tire.

Step 5 Rear Wing and Front suspension

Paint rear wing assembly Tamiya TS8. Glue the (A12) Rear Wing Strut onto the (F17) Rear Wing. Then Glue on the (F18 and F19) Rear Wing Endplates onto Rear Wing
Before Gluing on the suspension parts, insert (M45) Steering Rod Sleeve though the front nose.

Glue on the following parts illustrated below

Step 6 Other parts and Windscreen

Before gluing the Undertray onto the body. Attach A10, A11, M44, and A53.
Next, Superglue the cockpit into the body. Then superglue the Undertray onto the bottom of body

Superglue on the (M42) Rollover Hoop and the (M43) Fuel Inlet.
Using small scissors cut out the Vac-u-form Clear Windscreen and attach it with windscreen/canopy glue or CA Glue (risky)

Use a small dab of CA Glue to attach the (A52) Mirrors to the side of the windscreen

Attach wheels to the hubs and glue on the (A49) Rear Wheel nuts and (A52) Front Wheel Nuts

Step 7 – Apply Decals

Read more →

1/25 1985 Miller Penske March 85C full Multimedia kit instructions

1/25 1985 Miller Penske March 85C full Multimedia kit instructions

You can buy the 1985 Miller March 85C Resin CLICK HERE

This resin kit requires the follow Paints, tools, and supplies:
Tire Bleach
Scuff Pads
Spot filler
Super Glue
Tamiya Grey Surface Primer
Tamiya White Surface Primer
Tamiya TS-12 Italian Red
Tamiya TS-26 Pure White
Tamiya TS38 Gun Metal
Tamiya TS29 Semi-Gloss Black
Tamiya TS6 Matt Black
Tamiya TS82 Rubber
Molotow Liquid Chrome Marker
Solvaset Decal Solution
Surgical scissors
CA Glue
Canopy Glue
- #52 0.063” Drill bit
- Pin Vise drill
-Various Grits of sand paper
-Sanding sticks

 

Parts List

PARTS LIST

 -Body
-Undertray
-Clear Windscreen
A1 – Cockpit
A2 – Transaxle
A3 – Seat
A4 – Brake Disc
A5 – Dash
A6 – Rear Wing Strut Mount
A7 – Steering Wheel
A8 – Right Front Wing
A9 – Left Front Wing
A10 – Left Radiator
A11 – Right Radiator
A12 – Rear Wing Strut
A49 – Rear Wheel Nuts
A50 – Pop Off Valve
A51 – Mirrors
A52 – Front Wheel nuts
A53 – Turbo Inlet
P20 – Penske Rear Wing
P21 – Penske Left Rear Wing Endplate
P22 – Penske Right Rear Wing Endplate


C27 – Rear Tires
C28 – Front Tires
C29 – Rear Wheels
M31 – RIGHT Rear Lower Wishbone
M32 – LEFT Rear Lower Wishbone
M33 – RIGHT Front Lower Wishbone
M34 – Left Front Lower Wishbone
M35 – RIGHT Front Upper Wishbone
M36 – LEFT Front Upper Wishbone
M37 – Rear Upper Suspension
M38 – LEFT Rear Hub
M39 – RIGHT Rear Hub
M40 – LEFT Front Hub
M41 – RIGHT Front Hub
M42 – Rollover Hoop
M43 – Fuel Inlet
M44 – Exhaust
M45 – Steering Rod Sleave
M46- Pull Rods
M47- Steering Rod
M48 – Rear Axle

 

Part 1 – Clean up

Be sure to fill and clean your resin parts. I do not use mold release in my molds, but the resin still can pick up some oil contamination from the silicone rubber mold. Soaking in tire bleach or spray and rinse down with oven clean works well. Also, when sanding the surface of the resin its recommended to use Dawn dish washing soap as that helps get any possible grease off
Wash and soak all resin parts in Tire Bleach overnight. This will remove all contamination/oil off the resin.
After the Tire Bleach Bath, use a scratch pad and scuff up the entire surface to clean and scratch up the surface for proper Primer adhesion. Using a high grit sandpaper to clean up and scratch up the surface is also recommended. Failing to clean the surface will result in paint not adhering or paint reaction.
Fill in any pin holes or air bubbles in the resin with putty or Bondo Spot filler and sand smooth.
This is the most important part of the build.

Step 2 – Buildup

-Drill out the center of the Transaxle with a #52 0.063” Drill bit
-Drill out the hole for the steering rod sleeve with a #52 0.063” Drill bit

-Paint the Undertray with Tamiya TS-29 Semi-Gloss Black
-Paint (A2) Transaxle with Tamiya TS-35 Gunmetal
-Insert Brass (M48) Rear Axle into drilled hole of (A2) Transaxle
-Superglue the (A2) Transaxle onto the Undertray.

Glue on the following parts illustrated below

The white metal suspension parts need to be polished with steel wool or a soft brass wire wheel as the Penske Cars had Chrome suspension

Paint (A1) cockpit with Tamiya TS-29 Semi-Gloss Black
Paint (A3) Seat with Tamiya TS-6 Matt Black
Paint (A5) Dash with Aluminum and TS-29 Semi Gloss Black
Glue Seat and Dash into place

Step 3 - Body

Superglue Front wings onto the nose, be sure to test fit and develop a plan on how you are going to attach them properly.

Add a light coat of Tamiya Grey Surface Primer
Check for imperfections, sand, fill, sand, fill, and repeat
Add light coats of Grey Primer until all imperfection are gone.

Add light coats of Tamiya White Surface Primer
After Primer dries. Lightly sand smooth with high grit sandpaper.

Mask off the rear of the body

Make sure to study how the decals are designed to make sure the masking line is correct.

paint Body with Tamiya TS26 Pure white and Tamiya TS-8 Italian Red.
Spray 3 coats
First coat spray light and get all the hard to spray spots first. Let sit for 1 hour
Second coat, makes it a little heavier, let sit for 1 hour
Last coat, spray heavy and then let dry for 48 hrs

Step 4 Wheels and Tires

Drill out rear wheel with #52 0.063” Drill bit
Paint the wheels Semi Gloss Black

Sand and Clean up the black Resin tires then spray Tamiya TS-32 Rubber on them. Apply Indycals tire decals and use Solveset Decal solution to soften and help the decals conform to the curvature of the tire.

Step 5 Rear Wing and Front suspension

Paint rear wing assembly Tamiya TS26. Glue the (A12) Rear Wing Strut onto the (F17) Rear Wing. Then Glue on the (F18 and F19) Rear Wing Endplates onto Rear Wing
Before Gluing on the suspension parts, insert (M45) Steering Rod Sleeve though the front nose.

Glue on the following parts illustrated below

Step 6 Other parts and Windscreen

Before gluing the Undertray onto the body. Attach A10, A11, M44, and A53.
Next, Superglue the cockpit into the body. Then superglue the Undertray onto the bottom of body

Superglue on the (M42) Rollover Hoop and the (M43) Fuel Inlet.
Using small scissors cut out the Vac-u-form Clear Windscreen and attach it with windscreen/canopy glue or CA Glue (risky)

Use a small dab of CA Glue to attach the (A52) Mirrors to the side of the windscreen

Attach wheels to the hubs and glue on the (A49) Rear Wheel nuts and (A52) Front Wheel Nuts

Step 7 – Apply Decals

Read more →

1/25 1985 7-Eleven March 85C Michigan 500 version Emerson Fittipaldi Blog Post

1/25 1985 7-Eleven March 85C Michigan 500 version Emerson Fittipaldi Blog Post

You can buy the 1985 7-Eleven March 85C Resin CLICK HERE

This resin kit requires the follow Paints, tools, and supplies:
Tire Bleach
Scuff Pads
Spot filler
Super Glue
Tamiya Grey Surface Primer
Tamiya White Surface Primer
Tamiya TS-23 Light Blue
Tamiya TS-15 Blue
Tamiya TS26 Pure White
Tamiya TS38 Gun Metal
Tamiya TS29 Semi-Gloss Black
Tamiya TS6 Matt Black
Tamiya TS82 Rubber
Molotow Liquid Chrome Marker
Solvaset Decal Solution
Surgical scissors
CA Glue
Canopy Glue
- #52 0.063” Drill bit
- Pin Vise drill
-Various Grits of sand paper
-Sanding sticks

Parts List

PARTS LIST

 -Body
-Undertray
-Clear Windscreen
A1 – Cockpit
A2 – Transaxle
A3 – Seat
A4 – Brake Disc
A5 – Dash
A6 – Rear Wing Strut Mount
A7 – Steering Wheel
A8 – Right Front Wing
A9 – Left Front Wing
A10 – Left Radiator
A11 – Right Radiator
A12 – Rear Wing Strut
A49 – Rear Wheel Nuts
A50 – Pop Off Valve
A51 – Mirrors
A52 – Front Wheel nuts
A53 – Turbo Inlet
P20 – Penske Rear Wing
P21 – Penske Left Rear Wing Endplate
P22 – Penske Right Rear Wing Endplate


C27 – Rear Tires
C28 – Front Tires
C29 – Rear Wheels
M31 – RIGHT Rear Lower Wishbone
M32 – LEFT Rear Lower Wishbone
M33 – RIGHT Front Lower Wishbone
M34 – Left Front Lower Wishbone
M35 – RIGHT Front Upper Wishbone
M36 – LEFT Front Upper Wishbone
M37 – Rear Upper Suspension
M38 – LEFT Rear Hub
M39 – RIGHT Rear Hub
M40 – LEFT Front Hub
M41 – RIGHT Front Hub
M42 – Rollover Hoop
M43 – Fuel Inlet
M44 – Exhaust
M45 – Steering Rod Sleave
M46- Pull Rods
M47- Steering Rod
M48 – Rear Axle

 

Part 1 – Clean up

Be sure to fill and clean your resin parts. I do not use mold release in my molds, but the resin still can pick up some oil contamination from the silicone rubber mold. Soaking in tire bleach or spray and rinse down with oven clean works well. Also, when sanding the surface of the resin its recommended to use Dawn dish washing soap as that helps get any possible grease off
Wash and soak all resin parts in Tire Bleach overnight. This will remove all contamination/oil off the resin.
After the Tire Bleach Bath, use a scratch pad and scuff up the entire surface to clean and scratch up the surface for proper Primer adhesion. Using a high grit sandpaper to clean up and scratch up the surface is also recommended. Failing to clean the surface will result in paint not adhering or paint reaction.
Fill in any pin holes or air bubbles in the resin with putty or Bondo Spot filler and sand smooth.
This is the most important part of the build.

Step 2 – Buildup

-Drill out the center of the Transaxle with a #52 0.063” Drill bit
-Drill out the hole for the steering rod sleeve with a #52 0.063” Drill bit

-Paint the Undertray with Tamiya TS-29 Semi-Gloss Black
-Paint (A2) Transaxle with Tamiya TS-35 Gunmetal
-Insert Brass (M48) Rear Axle into drilled hole of (A2) Transaxle
-Superglue the (A2) Transaxle onto the Undertray.

Glue on the following parts illustrated below

The white metal suspension parts need to be polished with steel wool or a soft brass wire wheel as the Penske Cars had Chrome suspension

Paint (A1) cockpit with Tamiya TS-29 Semi-Gloss Black
Paint (A3) Seat with Tamiya TS-6 Matt Black
Paint (A5) Dash with Aluminum and TS-29 Semi Gloss Black
Glue Seat and Dash into place

Step 3 - Body

Superglue Front wings onto the nose, be sure to test fit and develop a plan on how you are going to attach them properly.

Add a light coat of Tamiya Grey Surface Primer
Check for imperfections, sand, fill, sand, fill, and repeat
Add light coats of Grey Primer until all imperfection are gone.

Add light coats of Tamiya White Surface Primer
After Primer dries. Lightly sand smooth with high grit sandpaper.

paint Body with Tamiya TS23 Light Blue
Spray 3 coats
First coat spray light and get all the hard to spray spots first. Let sit for 1 hour
Second coat, makes it a little heavier, let sit for 1 hour
Last coat, spray heavy and then let dry for 48 hrs

Step 4 Wheels and Tires

Drill out rear wheel with #52 0.063” Drill bit
Paint the wheels Chrome

Sand and Clean up the black Resin tires then spray Tamiya TS-32 Rubber on them. Apply Indycals tire decals and use Solveset Decal solution to soften and help the decals conform to the curvature of the tire.

Step 5 Rear Wing and Front suspension

Paint rear wing assembly Tamiya TS15 Blue. Glue the (A12) Rear Wing Strut onto the (E54) Rear Wing. Then Glue on the (E55 and E56) Rear Wing Endplates onto Rear Wing
Before Gluing on the suspension parts, insert (M45) Steering Rod Sleeve though the front nose.

Glue on the following parts illustrated below

Step 6 Other parts and Windscreen

Before gluing the Undertray onto the body. Attach A10, A11, M44, and A53.
Next, Superglue the cockpit into the body. Then superglue the Undertray onto the bottom of body

Superglue on the (M42) Rollover Hoop and the (M43) Fuel Inlet.
Using small scissors cut out the Vac-u-form Clear Windscreen and attach it with windscreen/canopy glue or CA Glue (risky)

Use a small dab of CA Glue to attach the (A52) Mirrors to the side of the windscreen

Attach wheels to the hubs and glue on the (A49) Rear Wheel nuts and (A52) Front Wheel Nuts

Step 7 – Apply Decals

Read more →