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Building a 1/24 1982 Coca-Cola Akin Racing Porsche 935 K3

Building a 1/24 1982 Coca-Cola Akin Racing Porsche 935 K3

This blog post reviews and shows how to properly convert the 1/24 scale NuNu Porsche 935 K3 kit into the 1982 Coca-Cola Akin Racing Porsche 935 K3 Daytona 24 hour version. The NuNu kit came out December 2019 as the 1979 #41 Kremer Porsche 935 K3 -24 hours of Le-Mans race winner, this was very exciting news to me as a model builder and businessman because there’s endless possibilities of K3’s that can be created from this NuNu kit. I have many conversion kits planed for this K3 kit. This blog will show how to accurately convert this kit into the 1982 Coke K3.

The 1982 Akin Racing Porsche 935 K3 – aka “Lady” was built in 1980 and had a long and storied history. Prior to racing at Daytona in 1982, it was campaigned in early 1981 by Bob Wollek with Jagermeister livery, but was sold to Akin just before Le Mans in 1981. The car was upgraded after Lemans with new side skirts and modifications to the nose and rear wing leading up to the 1982 Daytona 24 hours. Bob Akin, Derek Bell, and Craig Seibert battled back to finish second place after Akin spun in turn 1 during the night, hitting the guardrail that damaged the right quarter panel and knocked the brake out of adjustment. Akin would continue to racing this chassis up until the end of 1983.

The conversion kit

You can buy a conversion kit HERE

This conversion kit comes with:

2 Resin Fenders
2 Resin side skirts
1 Resin Hood radiator hood outlet
1 Resin Top Nose Extension
2 Resin Rear Wing Endplates

The kit needed

You can buy the donor kit off ebay, using my ebay affiliate link HERE

You can buy the 1/24 NuNu Porsche K3 HERE on ebay

The Decal sheet

The decal sheet can be purchased from Indycals HERE

Purchase this Indycals Decal Sheet HERE
Purchase this Indycals Decal Sheet HERE

Converting the NuNu kit

Be sure to fill and clean your resin parts. I don not use mold release in my molds but the resin still can pick up some oil contamination from the silicone rubber mold. Soaking in tire bleach or spray and rinse down with oven clean works well. Also when sanding the surface of the resin its recommended to use Dawn dish washing soap as that helps get any possible grease off

Converting Front nose and fenders

Using the Dremel grind out the front part of the hood, use the resin hood exit part to measure the size of the square opening needed to cutout the hood.

Then use Apoxie Sculpt to fill in the first 8 louvers on the front fenders

Super glue in the hood insert piece and sand down the apoxie sculpt on the louvers

Sand the gaps between the resin insert and plastic flush…

Fill the gaps with Apoxie Sculpt and or Bondo spot filler

I recommend using Tamiya grey Surface primer the front part of the hood before the next step. Add more filler and prime more if needed, until surface is smooth.

Then Super glue on the top nose piece and sand flush with the other surfaces and fill if needed with filler.

Side Skirts

Saw off the original side skirts with a razor saw

Use cutters to make the process easier too.

Sand the freshly cut surface with a file

Superglue on the resin side skirts. This part is kind of tricky, take your time and try to hold it in a way to keep the skirts straight until the glue sets up.

After the resin side skirts are cured, super glue the fenders on. This will require some test fitting and adjustments. Take your time as there is a lot of spots that need to line up just right to make these fenders fit properly. Don’t hesitate to do some grinding and sanding to makes this all fit.

Converting the Back Bumper

Use Apoxie Sculpt to fill in the back bumper indentions as on the Akin car didn’t have any, just a flat rear bumper, as seen in the picture below.

Sand down the Apoxie Sculpt with a file.

Use and fine grit file to smooth out the bumper. Then sand and scuff the rest of the car to prepare for primer.

Painting

Use Tamiya Grey Primer to find any imperfections that might be on the body. That is the main reason for applying primer is to help find any problem areas and to give the color coats a nice base to adhere to.

After apply coats of grey primer, I prefer to give the body a couple coast of Tamiya White primer. When using Tamiya spray paints, its important to use a white base, because Tamiya spray paints are very thin and translucent. After the white Primer is cured, Apply Tamiya TS-8 Italian Red

You can paint the side skirts aluminum or do what I did and use Bare Metal Foil

Decaling

Use Walters Solvaset for applying the Indycals decals.

After applying the decals I would HIGHLY recommend clear coating over the decals. Testors Lacquer Clear coat is a good safe clear coat, Tamiya TS-13 also works but and be a little ‘Hot” so be careful.

After all those steps its just a matter of following the kit instructions until the end.

The Final product

This was an enjoyable build. The NuNu kit was very straight forward and built very well. Thank you to Indycals for working with me to make this 1982 Coke K3 possible.

The decal sheet can be purchased from Indycals HERE and the Resin conversion kit can be bought HERE
The decal sheet can be purchased from Indycals HERE and the Resin conversion kit can be bought HERE
The decal sheet can be purchased from Indycals HERE and the Resin conversion kit can be bought HERE
The decal sheet can be purchased from Indycals HERE and the Resin conversion kit can be bought HERE
The decal sheet can be purchased from Indycals HERE and the Resin conversion kit can be bought HERE

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1986 March 86c Engine Upgrade Detail kit for 1/25 AMT Cummins March 86c Plastic kits

1986 March 86c Engine Upgrade Detail kit for 1/25 AMT Cummins March 86c Plastic kits

This blog will show the step-by-step process of upgrading the 1/25 AMT Cummins March 86c with the 3d designed Indycals kit.

As Indy car modelers, we are fortunate that AMT released a 1/25 scale March 86C kit in the form of Al Unser’s 1987 winning car. The kit, however, leaves a lot to be desired. There is only the top half of the tub (which is incorrect) no radiator detail, incorrect rear suspension, and part of the undertray is missing. This kit provides the parts to correct the flaws in the AMT kit such as:
-Correct tub
-the missing part of the undertray
-Radiator
-Oil cooler
-new exhaust parts
-new turbocharger plenum
-new turbocharger
-near upper rear suspension
-new rear shocks
-new GEARBOX
-Indycals decal sheet with Goodyear tire decals

You can buy the Upgrade kits here on my website

You can find the 1/25 AMT Cummins March 86c here on ebay

 

1987 Cummins March 86c parts

1986 Budweiser March 86c Parts

1986 Copenhagen March 86c Parts

Chassis Modifications

Glue in the radiator grills onto the side pods

Glue the top and bottom half of the main chassis together as the AMT directions show.

Use a razor saw to cut the AMT fuel tank off the back of the cockpit/seat area

Push the cockpit into the inside of the chassis

Push until it stops

Push fuel tank into place behind the cockpit

Make sure the back lip of the fuel cell is overlapping the rear part of the AMT tub area floor

Superglue the rear engine pan to the AMT chassis

Make sure to test fit before gluing

Drivetrain

Use a razor saw and cut on the red highlighted line to cut off the AMT Trans-axle as shown in the picture above.

Use the razor saw to cut off the AMT Trans-axle

Use Loctite Super Glue to attach the resin Trans-axle to the AMT Cosworth Engine

Drill out the trans-axle to install the rear axle. Use a Pin vise drill with a 0.098″ drill bit

Take the rear axle and sand down the center area flush with the rest of the axle

Test fit axle after drilling out the gearbox

Suspension

 

Use a razor saw to cut off the front suspension arms off the body.

Cut completely off flush with the body

Use a pin vise drill with a 0.026″ drill bit to drill out the center of where the suspension parts use to be attached

Use a pin vise drill with a 0.026″ drill bit to drill out holes on the ends of the cut-off suspension parts

Super glue 0.020″ Brass rod into the drilled-out ends of the suspension arms supplied in the kit.

Take the lower wishbones and cut off the area highlighted in red

Cut off the areas highlighted in red on the top rear wishbones.

Glue on the lower wishbone suspension to the bottom of the drivetrain and level out using the axel as a guide.

Use a square file and sand down the two areas as shown in the picture above to properly make the rocker-arm suspension fit properly

Attach the rocker arms to the top of the drivetrain and test fit before gluing

Glue on the Turbo and plenum. Make sure to test fit before gluing

Attach the shocks as seen in the picture. Push the shocks thru the holes.

Attach the suspension rods up to the hubs and the rocker arm suspension.

Attach the exhaust system as seen above. You will need to loop it around to make it fit.

Install the radiator and oil cooler, and be sure to test fit the location so the engine cover fits up to them properly

Attach radiator pipes as seen in picture

Before you start painting……make sure to scuff your body with a scratch pad to help for good paint adhesion. Then washing with Dawn dishwashing soap to get rid of any skin oils off the surface. Use Tamiya White Surface Primer on the body.

If you are building a March 86c that requires the engine exhaust hole to be plugged up, use the exhaust pug and super glue it into the hole.

If you are building a 1986 Budweiser, Copenhagen March, you must attach the rear wing strut bracket, strut and endplates

For the 1987 Cummins kit, I recommend Tamiya TS-16 Yellow

For the 1986 Budweiser kit, I recommend Tamiya TS-8 Italian red

For the Copenhagen kit, I recommend Tamiya TS-14 and Mustang Poppy Red

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1975 – 76 BMW 3.5 CSL IMSA Upgrade Kit

1975 – 76 BMW 3.5 CSL IMSA Upgrade Kit

The kit required

The kit required for this conversion kit is the 1:24 scale Otaki BMW 3.5 CSL. This kit was originally issued in 1978 and since then has been re-issued 7 other times by ARII, ARII as Owners Club, and Micro Ace with the Owners Club branding in the mid 2000’s

What’s in the kit…

This kit was designed to be a motorized kit and comes with a motor and the interior detail is minimal

Sand the top of the front fenders flush to make the fenders fit better to the body

Sand off the vents on the rear fenders

The rear part of the front fenders needs to be modified

Use the Dremel to grind down edge

Grind down the triangle section of the inside the front fender

Grind completely flush

Glue on some flat styrene to modify the shape

Use Apoxie Sculpt to fill in the holes on the trunk.

Superglue the Resin bottom bumper extension onto the bottom of the kit bumper

Superglue the front bumper onto the front of the kit. Be sure its level and square to the rest of the body.

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